comments on Myanmar

Hello everyone…
Today is an absolutely beautiful day, April-12th…and we are en route to OMAN, arriving tomorrow. The past week or so has been absolutely amazing…so many wonderful sights, and opportunities to “give thanks” for our great fortune in being American, free and filled with opportunities not available in so many other parts of the world.

Myanmar…such grand temples and despite the” improvement since the communists have taken control’ , per some of the people we have met… we were also told of the control of information …! One can see it on the channels available on TV despite the sattilite dishes which some have managed to afford… this is few as the tax to have them is high. Then, the stations and radio is controlled anyway. Monitoring the “net” is such a problem, although the people with whom we talked were complimentary to the overall conditions and hope for a better future, I do not feel it safe to put much information than this, into this internet document…and will wish to share more with you, in person, when, once, we are together again.

Our first day in Burma, allowed us a visit to the fabulous Swedagon Pagoda…it is 2500 years old and 326 feet high…truly amazing. As we approached, we entered a golden gate and immediately had to take off our shoes AND socks. (unlike in Thailand, only shoes were required). Throughout the temple area, there were many young women using rather primitive brooms, to sweep away any dirt…so that we could walk safely and RELATIVELY cleanly. Of course, our feet needed “disinfecting” once we were again home…but “when in Rome…” and out of respect, we did feel more blended in with so many others who were visiting from ALL around the world coming together …a truly a multicultural group to see this grand complex of tributes to Buddah. The sight was overwhelming to me at moments…somewhat like the experience at the grand Palace in Bankok. Many were praying and some just listening to history, others quietly taking it all in (me). The riches are astounding…especially in the Temples and surrounding the “reclining Buhhah” sites…our next stop Chauk Htat Gyi one of the largest reclining Buddahs in the world.

I kept looking at the people, and found to my surprise that many of the people I met in those areas seemed to have smiles. I imagined that, as they live in such difficult circumstances, this might not be the case. Quite the contrary...whenever I waved to them from the bus...they smiled back and eagerly waved at me. Friendly and aimiable, they seemed proud of their various jobs sweeping to try as they might, to keep the holy sites clean. However, just outside of the temple areas there were many in want…always selling their fans, or jewelry or hats…whatever they could for money. Some just looking ! Those seemed sort of Lost…it was difficult to see. It surely seems to be a start contrast…a country of untold riches, historically, as depicted in their golden temples and yet, so many of the people are literally DIRT poor.

As I have been editing pictures, when I came to a picture which was not in focus, I deleted it. After the second or third one, It struck me that if I deleted anymore, then the faces in those pictures would be simply disappear. It would be so easy to have pretty pictures, yet if I continued, the many blurred faces of those I saw in my poorest pictures would also erase from my memory. I don’t want that to happen! Ironic, isn’t it, that the poorest pictures, were, often, of the poorest people. Even the blurring seem appropriate. I felt that I could not erase them… that…for through the blurring, the thoughts and feelings from their hearts and minds, as shown in their eyes…are captured. I want to remember them !


The second day, we went northeast to the ancient city of BAGO, founded in 825, made capitol of the Mon Kingdom 13th century. We were here for the whole day. The trip was long and very interesting. Unlike the central city, there were long stretches of uninhabited road, dotted along the way with an occasional market stand, or gas station. Often, one would see one or two people working the fields…or lying in a hammock under a tree. Transportation here, unlike Thailand (Honda motor bikes), is bicycles ! There are thousands of them all through Burma…as most people still call it.

The men wear a piece of material wrapped around the lower halfof their bodies…and most often thongs or bare feet. The women wear the same…with covered, veiled upper half…most often very colorful…always conservatively covering their arms and legs. Often their heads. NO MATTER THE TEMPERATURE WAS hot, HOT HOT !!!

En route, we stopped at the war memorial to commenerate the 27,000 Allied soldiers who died in World War !! This was quite impressive and there were several Burmese gardening to help to keep it pristine…Note the pictrure in shutterfly in a few days !
As we traveled, we entrered the town of Htauk Kyant…and a market there…very clean with beautiful things ! Not enough time…probably a GOOD THING!

Then, it was on to another pagoda, Shwendagon…the highest pagoda in Myanmar…over 1,000 years old, and another reclining Buddah at Shwethalyaung . After a wonderful lunch, we went to Kyakhatwine Monastery, Southern Myanmar’s largest one, and quite an experience. As we entered, the Monks were all lined up, awaiting entry for their one big meal of the day…rice and one vetable. The monestary was VERY sparce and dirty. We were allowed to explore the outer rooms and when we did, in one very distant and dirty room, I found three women sitting in a corner, peeling potatoes and root vegatables. It was so dark and dirty, that, at first, I didn’t even see them. Once I did, they were all smiles and even offered to pose for me with pots on their heads as if they were carrying them. I couldn’t help but wonder about them! Were they taught how to do this for sightseers…? Were they just glad to see me…someone from “the outside”…who were they? I had sooooo many questions which will be unanswered, yet the experience left an indelible mark on me…!

Before we were scheduled to leave Bago…we did two things. The first was to walk among a typical Bago village and witness the weaving of cloth. Amazing to me that in such a small place…a hut really, dirt floors and such, a large weaving machine run completely by hand could be found in several homes. The weaving was being done by teenagers as well as one older man. The Children could work, either weaving or rolling cigarettes for sale, because it was too hot and they were on school vacation ! (some vacation…eh?)Again, lighting was poor, yet the people were all smiles and Oh! So welcoming to us…I couldn’t resist buying a couple of pieces of cloth, when I met the older lady who was selling it.

Walking around this area, were, also, many villagers selling their wares…and I met up with several girls. They couldn’t’ have been more than about 14 or 15 years old. They giggled lots of the time, when I joked with them…and, of course, we HAD to get a picture. I showed them the picture…and that made them giggle even more. Yes…! I did buy some hats & fans from them!

There was soooo much poverty here, it was amazing ! yet…the people seemed happy while we were there. I wondered…how, why? Perhaps they know nothing else...perhaps simplicity in their lives is all right and 'enough"...?

Our last stop was at Kyeikpon to see the four soaring Buddah images. By the time we arrived there…I confess, I decided that I had seen my LAST Buddah…and, instead, would walk around to meet more of the people. That I did. I didn’t go far, as this was not the place to do so, however it didn’t take long to meet a 13 year old girl…selling her wares. She had been a ¾ of our sites and I asked, while laughing>..HOW could she manage that, being everywhere we were…she said that she”… LIVED here”…and knew the short cuts to get from place to place in order to be able to spend more time with us…to make more sales. She asked about me, how old I was and I told her that I was 13 once. She said plainly…”No! really, how old are you…I want to get to know you” (how could one resist a pretty young girl who speaks her mind and is so creatively selling and making her way in life?) I told her…and she shouted “no!”. I asked if that was bad…she said no, but that she had never met anyone that old…then giggled. I asked why? She said that people don’t usually live THAT long. She said that she wanted to though because she had a little daughter; while she told me all about her little girl…she, eagerly, dug into her straw bag of the hats she had brought to sell, to find her picture to show me. (note the picture of the little girl, holding the picture of HER little girl in the shutterfly pictures.

I told her about our grandchildren and the three little ones on the way…and that made her happy (that I would share with her). All this time, she sacrificed time selling, to talk with me. Finally Pat found us, and after a picture, we had to leave. She hugged me and I can’t help but feel that both of us got more out of our time, than either her selling, or, my looking at even one more Buddah after the many wonderful sites I had already seen!

We finished the day having refreshments at the royal barge…the cap of a lovely, interesting and poignant day. At our last stop, we were approached by two older women who were selling sparrows. It seems that it is ‘good luck’ to honor something by releasing the sparrows at the same time (ie our white doves). Here, however, somehow, they manage to catch them again, and sell them over and over. Creative, eh? NO! we didn’t buy any .

The 2+ hours ride back to the ship offered time for reflection and for giving thanks for all we have in our lives whether big or small…perhaps just for living longer than 13!

Well………this is all for now…as I will try to get more pics ready for uploading. There will be a lot so enjoy them…I just couldn’t leave many out, this time…my weakness !
(just finished day one...day two is coming tonight, or SOON!)

I just found out that they DOUBLED the internet rates, despite the connection speeds being so slow,and so, I may have to just imbed a few pictures into my journal from now on, and to do the uploading once home…we’ll see.
Each stop has with it grandeur, priceless treasures and history…but I continue to feel, the more I see, that people are really just the same !

Be well…………
Safe and know that we care deeply about each of you.
Nancy

arriving in Cochi, India tomorrow

Hi there...just a quick note before I go to sleep. Today, I thought it fun to tell you about a typical day on the ship...so you'll see what wonderful educational offerrings we have here, and just why, I haven't always found time to get the epistles and pics to you in a more timely way. so ...check it out:

Today is April 6th…..and in just one day less than a month…this wonderful adventure will be ending…HOW could that be? The time has gone by so very fast…so many days, so many, many wonderful experiences ! To give you an idea about our “boring” sea days…here is the schedule for today:

Breakfast… 10a lecture on India (The Mughals sweep into india from the north and reate one of the world’s great empires…) 11a Author, Professor and Television Personality Dr. Harm de Blij presents: China and America: Averting A Clash of Civilizations 11:00 Origami class, advanced Bridge Lecture on Bidding, Berlitz progrewssive Spanish Class 11:15-Computer Univ @ SSea Class: working w Scenery Photograph elements 6 11:30a shuffleboard 11:50-1:30 Grand Gala buffet 12n team trivia 12-1p casino complimentary gaming lessons 1:30p Enrichment program featuring celebrity Author and Book reviewer Robert Adams presenting THE PICTURE OF DORIAN GRAY by Oscar Wild Yamaha music lessons, college computer course, 2p Casino slot tourney 2:15p Crystal chorus rehearsal 2-4 table tennis tourney 2:30 Movie: Michael Claton, scrabble, Needlepoint, social bridge, Dulicate bridge, Golf clinic, Paddle tennis 3p Avenue of the Stars fashion show, YOGA, Spanish class, Odyssey art at Sea…scrapbooking 3:30-4:30 Crystal Tea time w the Champagne Strings 4p fitness class 4:30p WALK ON WATER WITH WALKVEST 5:15- Captain’s cocktail party in his stateroom for world cruisers 6-dinner 8p Full Sail – Male a capella 50’s quartet 8:45 Welch comedian 9:30-1a dancing in either of three places and Karoake in Pulse Fall into bed ! India awaits……in the morning !…! Just thought that you might wish to see a typical day here on the ship.

Of course, one doesn’t do EVERYTHING…impossible…but, there is sooooooo much to choose from, one simply cannot be bored !

Tomorrow we arrive in India…Cochi…to be exact. The name has changed from Cochin, to Cochi recently. We’ll dock about 20 min from Ft. Cochin…but no shuttles are allowed, to assure taxi fare for the locals. We’ll be going on an excursion for a walking tour of the seaside town of Fort Cochin. There, we’ll see the fishing nets originating from 1350-1450 by traders from the court of Kublai Khan. Next, we’ll see the church of St Francis…the first European church built in India. Later that will be contrasted by visiting the 20th century Santa Cruz Cathedral…which is described to be spendidly outfitted in Indo-Romano-Rococo Style. (Your guess is as good as mine…but soon I’ll know how to better describe this to YOU). As this is a walking tour…we’ll have time to explore the town green, shops and spice markets…and I eagerly anticipate this as a chance to meet some “new friends”. We’re only in Cochin until 6-pm so, our time is limited, however, I am sure that with the high heat and humidity, about 6-8 hours will seem enough for us, there.

last night, we had a "country fair" around the pool...lots of fun games...ie DARTS, ring toss, "dunk the captain" and so on. They had a golf chipping contest using a wiffle ball with velcro on it. To win a bottle of champagne, one had to fly the ball, with a flop shot EXACTLY into the middle of the "green". it took three tries, but on the last try...I DID IT !!! YAY! IT WAS SOOOOOOOO FUN. COULDN'T BELIEVE IT...a good shot, but a VERY, VERY lucky one, "fer sure !" I know , entertainment for the Mindless...but good fun, too.

I am almost done with more pictures from Thailand…and shall upload them tonight or day after tomorrow. The Pics from Vietnam and Myanmar may have to wait for another few sea days. Sorry. I do want to do them editing justice before uploading them…! I will alert you all when they are there for you to see. Thanks for your patience. I love sharing.

hope you all are well........and that Spring is beginning to bloom...and create optimism for a lovely upcoming spring/summer season. I love spring...it is colorful and new and young and innocent and fresh and hopeful...all good things. soooooo, enjoy !

This is all for tonight…I should get some sleep soon, for tomorrow will be another interesting and demanding day (heat wise…the heat takes it out of us…and being rested helps us to cope with it).

Until next time…love from us both…… Nancy

HELLO from the Bay of Bengal - Indian ocean

Pictures for you ! From: Nancy Ruth Jacob-o'Toole ------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------- Pictures from O'TOOLE WORLD CRUISE 2008 Note: This Shutterfly Collection is password protected. You will need to get the password from the owner to view the Shutterfly Collection. (1 of 113 pictures) If selecting "See pictures" doesn’t work, copy-and-paste this address into your browser: http://otooleworldcruise2008.shutterfly.com/

HELLO from the bay of Bengal/Indian ocean… (we are now, 9.5 hours ahead of you)

It is 6:14am…on April 5th We are cruising, ever so calmly through the water, via the ancient spice trade route through the bay of Bengal, to Cochin, India. Oh! I never thought that I would ever say that. So much history has come before these days, and I not a part of it…but a descendant OF it. It is beginning to be sunrise and, having gained yet another hour last night, I am feeling rested, and up early, enjoying, fully, the colors of the hot red sun, as it breaks away from the few clouds holding it hostage, before it escapas and finally shines ever so brightly, all on its own. It will be HOT very soon, and just now, I am enjoying the delicious cool breeze while I sit on the Verandah, before the heat of the day. Were you with me, I think that you would agree that it is nice out here, on the verandah, watching the small waves and hearing the slight breeze as we effortlessly cut through the water…but, instead, I am joined by the sun, the waves, the thoughts inside of me…and so you see, in am in good company. Right now, I am listening to the smooth whoosh of the waves which allow the bow of this grand vessel to cut them as if they were a sea of warmed butter…ever so smooth and calm…it gives one a chance to think without distraction. It has been quite some time since I wrote to all of you…and there has been so much richness of thought which I would like to share with you all. Ahhh! There IS much history, and we have been Oh! So fortunate to have a historian/story teller onboard to do that with us in lecture form, each morning…and I could never do THAT justice. Instead I would like to share snippits of time, my observations and feelings. Perhaps describe a person or two, and hope to give you a window into what It has been like being in Phuket , Thailand for the day that we were there. Ah! Phuket. This was our last stop in Thailand…and I was sooooooo looking forward to seeing it, and anticipating our wonderful upcoming excursion to see and to ride the Elephants. I was picturing in my mind Patrick and I riding, together, loping along in the rain forest atop that grand beast, in a basket or something…something I never dreamed of doing until just recently. I remember having ridden a camel around CHEOPS once, when I was there with Mom…and almost falling off, and so, I had hoped that the basket would offer some protection…I am just a bit older now, and the ground always feels a bit harder. Anyway…the day was met with great anticipation! Yes, that day, I arose early, too; Early enough to see the sun come up…filled with the excitement a kid feels on Christmas morning…I guess that I greet most new ports that way…I JUST CAN’T WAIT TO SEE…TO BE THERE…AND TO MEET THE PEOPLE! . Anyway, Back in Thailand, we started our excursion by traveling to a CASHEW nut factory. I must say, that I did not expect to see what I did see there. We learned about the beautiful trees on which the cashews grow…pretty yellow flowers out of which the nut appears and just how the nuts are processed. I don’t know about our country, but in Thailand, each nut casing is cut and the nut removed by hand ! I have pictures, which you may already have seen, (if not…have a re-look at them when you have time)…and look at the faces of these women whose job it is to do just this. Such character on their darkened and wrinkled old faces. Their dress is simple and conservative…long dress, ¾ length sleeved blouses, faded, and wearing plastic gloves. They have seen much. They have had a hard life…they are STILL working. They seldom look up…in my 30 min there, I only saw one look upward at us, once…so intent on their work…a sort of symphony of motion taking care not to miss a single beat! In this shop, they have the help of a press-machine to crack a hole in the nut, and then they quickly and skillfully remove the casings and then, the nut. The whole process takes only a second or two. As there is a sort of poison residue on one of the nut casing layers near to the outside (not touching the cashew itself), they must wear gloves to protect themselves while doing this for 10 hours a day. In return, they make about a $1.oo/day…if they are able to keep up the volume/hour. IMAGINE ! $1.00/DAY FOR 10 HOURS WORK…! This is piece work at the extreme! Even monkeys, gathering cocoanuts make, for their owners, $12/day! An they get exercise and BANANAS ! Sort of puts “a bad day at the office” into perspective…eh>? Back to the cahews…here, they make and sell about 8 or so kinds of cashews: seseme, hot pepper, honey nut, cinnamon, macadamia nut crusted and the list goes on. We had a chance to try most and they were quite good…each one. After this “rest stop” we headed on to the Wat Chelong Buddist temple and Monestary. It is revered for its enshrined notable buddist monks and for the fact that it is also the largest and most ornate of Phuket’s 29 Buddist monestaries. You can see by the pictures I have uploaded into shutterfly, the ornate quality of these wonderful structures. People often come to pray at a temple…at least once /day… take off their shoes, usually buy a lotus flower as an offering before entering the temple. Many sit or their knees, prayerfully, shaking sticks or clappers…rocking back and forth while praying; others sit quietly and with stillness…great with reflection. I would love to have known more about the way that they pray, but with all that we saw and heard about that day, I simply forgot to ask. Ah! That will alow more to learn yet another time…If ever I get the chance ! After removing our shoes, we went into each of the temples. Each was differently adorned and each had a different buddah. One had lots of colorful flowers, and beautiful stained glass windows; another, yellow ribbons and mirrored tiles; another many beautiful carvings. We, also, went into the larger, more central one. In that one, we climbed up to the top, passing one adorned floor after another…all with beautiful hand painted walls, doors and ceilings, filled with gold buddahs. Finally, at the top- that is where I got the shots of the entire complex of the monestary. Many Monks walked about among the people…always in silence with bare feet, their orange or yellow cloth wrapped around them Oh! So skillfully and delicately draped. The temples were truly beautiful, despite their dramatic and ornate quality…and I shall admit that when I left, I felt more quiet inside. Oh! I must add that at the exit, we found several Elephants…one large and several small ones…with leis around their necks……apparently, another Homage paid my many. This experience over…it was on to the Elephant camp. Such a great complex filled with activity…oxen drawn carts for transporting one from place to place…or, simply for an elegant ride. Elephants with their basket atop wandering freely about…the excitement was growing inside me. We started at the “ baby Elephant show”…another one like the one we had seen when I was chosen for an Elephant Massage…YOU GOT IT! …! ANYWAY, it was fun seing them doing what they were trained to do…hop, kneel, shoot baskets with a basketball…and so on. FINALLY, came the elephant ride. I wondered HOW we were going to GET ON the elephant…and soon found it quite civilized…as we were sent to a platform, and the elephants ambled up to us…the basket at platform level. ! Well, Pat encouraged me to get into the basket and before I knew it, our friend jumped in and off we went. I felt a sort of blow…as I had so looked forward to doing this with Patrick…and I still can’t believe that we didn’t get to do this special thing together, but, alas, it wasn’t to be. Pat followed several elephants back, so at least I was able to get some pictures of him as he arrived back into the camp…as you will see in the the shuttrfly link. The Elephants are quite gentle creatures…at least the trained ones I met…they let you touch them and feed them and as they walk, they amble in a stable sort of way. I never felt scared. It was wonderful. would love to have another chance to have this experience. Perhaps, we’ll find a place in India to have another chance…this time TOGETHER. Who knows? Well…….the day was fabulous and the trip each way such a nice thing. ..to ride comfortably air conditioned, time to just watch the side of the road…taking in the daily lives of the villagers. The countryside is barren except for occasional little villages and sporadic refreshment huts…very remote as one might expect. Now and then, one might see a person relaxing in a hammock, or someone “setting up shop” for the day. It was relaxing to ride each way…hearing about the culture and the societal mores of the people. More than once, I found myself drowsily drifting away, the words dulling as I allowed the experiences to just wash over me…as if in a dream world. “Yet it is true…I am really here “. Once “home” at the ship, I found that many vendors had set up a serious market just ourside of the boundaries of the pier…and although it was about 110 degrees and about 85% humidity…I confess that I couldn’t wait to get outside again to meet the people. Ah! Yes, I confess that along the way, I did some shopping. NOT MUCH, but just enough so as to have a vehicle to chat with the people…for I so love doing that. I found them VERY welcoming to me, even when I didn’t buy anything, but always when I was appreciative of their “artful items for sale”. I often asked if THEY had made the items, and HOW? They were eager to tell me, despite some language challenge, but the sense of pride in their work came through and it was easy for me to compliment them…and MEAN it. They liked it when I said “good morning” or “thank you” to them in Thai…they smiled and returned the offering with a “good morning, Madam”. They seem to be a happy people, most often smiling and all this despite the hard work AND the poverty. I love the ever so fleeting moments that I feel even a little connected to people of different cultures as I am learning that we all, really are, just the same and should connect! We DESERVE that ! Of course, once back on the ship, the air conditioning was a welcome thing, yet I felt a bit guilty as I could escape the heat and they couldn’t…EVER! I didn’t really like that realiztion. That night, we were treated to a wonderful , colorful and exotic cultural show on board the ship…really fabulous and very traditional costumes. I was able to capture some of that on “film” and hope to include it in the shutterfly link. After a long bath to finally clean my bare…”Buddist FEE”…and a nice meal…I fell into bed. To anticipate a glorious “sea day” of rest. The rest was welcome…and as I drifted off to sleep, I really felt glad to have been a visitor in Thailand…for it has left an indelible impression on me. The sea days are so wonderful…often people might think them boring …ah! Contraire !!! They are filled with high end lectured by historians, so often educating us about the very areas we are visiting…or theatrical book reviewers, often reviewing books written by or about subjects/ times/ or areas of local interest…or political or celebrity speakers. They are good abo ut tailoring their lectures to the geography we are experiencing to help all of us feel more educated about what we experience. That is helpful and wonderfully enriching to the overall experience. Usually, we go to about three hours a day of these… interrupted by lunch. Before we know it, it is about 3pm!!! I am taking more photo finishing classes and in addition to these there are a bllion other things offered to those who would wish for them…ie bridge, trivia, dance lessons, movies, art classes and the list goes on and on! One must find time to just “be” and we are doing better at that, by now. Anyway…I took a complete day off from photos and writing, knowing that I could resume today, once I felt more vigor. I could finish my thoughts about the days in Myanmar, but, frankly, those days were so special and filled with emotion, I would rather choose another time…if you will humor me that indulgence? I promise to do the writing before we hit India, for I am sure that country will offer so many more pages to relay stories and feelings; yet another epistle. It has been lovely just being with you this morning; albeit virtual, a lovely experience watching the sun come awake as I shared my stories with you. We are both well and send our love, Nancy

Ps………..go to shutterfly to see the last two downloads: http://otooleworldcruise2008.com/ password: CRYSTALS then…click on : otooleworldcruise2008 to access all of the albums..and ENJOY !

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